Joey Santley and Green Foam Blanks have been quietly charging ahead with their recycled surfboards blanks. Getting boards in production and getting a lot of notice even from the mainstream media. Now he’s set his sights on helping clean up the BP spill. Read the link above, I won’t try and paraphrase it here. Much respect to Joey and his partners for the devotion they’ve shown over the past few years. They are trying to make a difference and are clearly passionate about what they are doing.

Article Link:
http://www.grindtv.com/outdoor/blog/17908/surfers+gain+epa+support+for+their+gulf+coast+cleanup+cure/

We as a culture have managed to put our own personal interests and desires in front of our own best interests as a species. In 2 generations we’ve managed to make our home a much more difficult, caustic place to live.

The current madness going on in the Gulf of Mexico a haunting reminder of our own fallibility.

The craftsmanship of Jeff Martin turned up to us a few years ago and then again his work resurfaced when he was working on a very special board with the boys up at Grain. I’ve always kept an eye on his blog and there have been some amazing pieces of craftmanship showing up there. It’s not really surfing related but so little in life is.  If you look for inspiration only in the obvious places you will miss so much of what is good out there.  His approach and conscious awareness of his materials can easily be translated to wave riding vehicles. Be conscious of your material choices and their impact and be honest with their use.

For a better look into what makes Jeff tick, check out this interview with him over at Revolver -
http://www.revolversf.com/blogs/news/1576642-master-craftsman-profile-jeff-martin/

More woody goodness:

http://www.jeffmartinjoinery.com

http://tarpcitygypsies.blogspot.com/

There are some for-profit as well as NGOs that are trying hard to do the right thing.  It’s hard in the new world order of offshore production and global marketplaces to stand your ground, stick to your ideals and still pull off a successful business model that takes into account the finite resources around us. It’s good to see some of those people getting a little light shone on them, especially by the mainstream surfing press.

Read more about WAVES for Development:

http://www.wavesfordevelopment.org/

http://surfermag.com/travel/reinventing_surf_tourism/

http://www.phoresia.org/?p=427

Directed by Ryan Thomas and with music by Everybody, BS! appears on the surface to be another high action flick but there are subtleties which foreshadow a younger generation of surfers who are looking at surfing through fresh eyes and doing so without any hangups. There’s a scene early in the film where the guys are asked who inspires them. There’s no awkwardness in their silence. No one mentions the usual Slater, Curren, Occy, Lopes bit. Then there’s a pro vs. free-surf discussion that cuts to a funny scene of David Rastovich falling off a wave and turning into a dolphin. And finally, the scene of a board shooting out over the top of a wave and knocking a pre-historic pterodactyl out of the sky as if to mark the end of an epoch.

We don’t usually do film reviews on Phoresia and come to think of it this isn’t really a review. I was inspired to write about BS! because the film caused me to think about my own surfing in a different way. In surfing culture there tends to be an unwavering reverence for surf heroes and icons of the past. There is also an unwillingness to be critical about the culture which seems to be a cultural phenomenon about surfing. These views are contrary to the individuality and creativity of surfing as an activity. But the marriage of capitalism to the culture has blurred the lines between what’s real and what’s contrived.

EXCERPT from the surf film: BS! from R.T. on Vimeo.

I often think of how absurd our modern lives are. How most of us spend our days doing something that we don’t really care to do and daydream about what we’d love to be doing. Our diets are absurd. Our standard of living and the way we waste resources is absurd. Our gazillion subcultures and how seriously we take ourselves is absurd and yet more often than not those absurdities pass over our heads unseen like bats in the night. So when I am reminded of those absurdities I laugh at myself and relax a little. I realize that things are simpler than I make them out to be. I remember that I surf because it’s fun and because it is funny. BS! is essentially an absurd look at our current surf culture, encompassing both a critique and a sobering view into the sports progression, and it does so with humour and style. What else can you ask for from a film?

- Director Ryan Thomas also has a rad blog called Warbles
- You can also read an interview with Ryan over at Korduroy TV

Fun times, good friends, family and warm water in December. Can’t much beat that.

Honestly, we’re both kinda played out a bit on our original direction for Phoresia which was “sustainable surfing” – the products, lifestyles and thought processes that encompassed that. Not because we’ve lost interest or there is any lack of inspiring things going on, but nearly the opposite, in that exploring the concept in detail we’ve both kind of found our own happy stasis in life, surfing, family and overall environmental impact. At first, trying to lead a more sustainable life in regards to surfing and otherwise, seemed like it would be difficult and require great efforts. Quite the opposite has proven to be true. By eliminating all the unneeded excess it frees you up mentally, physically and monetarily to pursue the things that truly make you happy versus getting caught in the trappings of what you think you need to make you happy. We’ve come to realize being “sustainable” isn’t about the products you buy, it’s about the products you don’t buy.

You may know Chris Cutri from his excellent film Riding the Wave. The film took a critical look at the commercialization of surfing and surf culture. Chris is back now with his second surf inspired film titled Hanging 5. The film looks at the lives of five working artists who also happen to be surfers.

I must admit that at first I was skeptical. I immediately had a vision of the SoCal perfect sunrise, and perfect sunset vibe. I was sure that I would be fed more contrived surf culture imagery. But it’s not quite so simple and often my judgments precede objectivity. So I fired off some questions to Chris. He sent me a screening copy of the film. And we were off to the races.

I’ve watched the film twice now. The film includes Julie Goldstein, Tyler Warren, Andy Davis, Alex Knost and the amazing Wolfgang Bloch. Cutri weaves the film with his usual sense of style and the artists lives unfold to show not only their passion and commitment to their work, but also the work ethic that it takes to find success as an artist. And I think that that was what inspired me the most. Life, like surfing, is about pursuing our interests with a strong work ethic and a steady st(r)oke.

Q. Well Chris you’re back at it and this time with a different approach to Riding the Wave. Can you tell about the theme of Hanging Five and how the idea came about?

Over the last few years, I’ve been following the art scene within the surf culture. It has fascinated me that this group actually exists and how it has increasingly become more popular over the years. I’m a big fan of art in its different forms. My sister and mother in law are both fine art painters. I have also done some painting and photography myself, so the interest for me on a personal level has always been there. The film not only documents these 5 artists work, but it also try’s to examine why the surf culture supports and promotes the arts. What is it about surfing that connects itself to artistic creativity?

Q. How did you connect with the artists/ surfers?

I have been following the work of these and several other artists in this community. I chose these five because I resonated with their work. Through mutual acquaintances I was able to connect with the artists. They graciously accepted to be in the film to which I’m thankful for.

Q. I think it’s fair to say that at least here in North America we’re spoon fed the often contrived So Cal surfer lifestyle of cruising and endless sunsets –something that is hard to relate to here in the North Atlantic for example. Some of the artists in your film may fit this mould. Did you find this to be true with any of your subjects?

Although most of the artists are from So Cal and surfing is a huge part of their lives, I’m not sure if they fit the “contrived” persona you’re talking about. I was very impressed with how thoughtful each artist was in relation to their work and about life in general. It’s interesting to see how the media has constructed the image of the surfer.

Q. Alex Knost is a controversial dude. A lot of people seem to judge him based strictly on the way he presents himself. Others claim that his surfing skill is questionable and that he only surfs small waves. Did you get a sense of the real person behind the marketed image of hipster surfer?

Alex is a very interesting person and I’ve felt that controversy as I show the film. Since I was with him in person on several occasions, I felt like I got to see someone who is kind and thoughtful. Yes, the hipster persona is there and I think there is a conscious decision to try to break away from the typical “Hey Dude” image that exists in surfing and move towards more of the bohemian/artist persona. There’s a section in the film called, “A Day In The Life of Alex Knost” and it goes on to recount one day that Alex literally experienced: 8-12am Surfing, 1-3pm get posters ready for his film, 3-5pm Set up posters and sound check the film, 6-8pm Play a gig with his band The Japanese Motors, 8-10pm screen his new film “Beach Blanket Burnout” in Santa Ana. This was all in one day. I find it impressive that Alex, instead of consuming pop culture (which most kids his age are) is producing it. Dora wasn’t into big waves…I personally feel Alex is one of the most interesting surfers to watch.

Q. Personally I’m a big fan of Tyler Warren’s surfing as well as his drawing. How much are these young artists influenced by corporate interests? As opposed to Wolfgang Bloch’s fine art approach.

I think they are only influenced by corporate interests in that they have to provide for themselves and their families. I think at the end of the day most of them would like to be fine artists and work on that exclusively and not have to sell t-shirts etc. Alex mentions in the film that he doesn’t even like to sell his art-that once you sell the art, it defeats the purpose of making the art in the first place.

Q. And what about the longboard connection in the film? Was that your wish or was it an organic thing? There’s a few “shortboarder” artists out there as well.

The longboard connection was completely coincidental. I had no intention of just focusing on longboarders.

Q. So now after these two films what’s your take on the state of surf culture in North America?

I think we’re at an interesting point in the surf culture right now. I don’t follow the whole ASP competition scene, but it seems like there’s a younger generation of surfers who are doing real interesting things within the culture: making all types of different boards, producing media that is new and fresh, and having more control over the surf culture that they want to see versus a certain paradigm that is forced upon them (this is still happening), but I think many are trying to create their own vision of what the surf culture can be. I hope it continues.

Q. Do you have any other surf film idea floating around?

When I made my first film “Riding The Wave”, I thought I would never do another surf film again. I felt like I accomplished everything I wanted to say or discuss about surfing in that film. Then the art topic came along and I got really into that. As of right now, I’m tossing around a few ideas, but nothing solid yet. All I know is that I have to be super passionate about the subject matter before I dive into it.

Chris Cutri is a filmmaker and professor at Brigham Young University

You can get more info about the film at the website:
www.hangingfive.com

I read recently that sending an interview subject a list of questions and expecting them to send you their answers could be construed as lazy journalism.

When you live 800 miles from the interviewer, as Sage Joske does, I claim an excuse, and also claim I was going to write around it, ‘in my own words’ afterwards…anyway.

In the end, I haven’t. When you read Sage’s replies you’ll see why.

As we prepared for the Musica Surfica event on King Island, Australia in May 2007 I was searching for a couple of extra surfers to join those brave enough to join our finless experiment, Tom Wegener had suggested Heath Joske. A hot young kid with enough smarts to be able to reflect on the experience… on camera.

Derek Hynd had been a little ambivalent to my suggestion of an extra body or two, not least as he had a budgetary responsibility of sorts and… we did have enough. On mentioning the name Joske, however, the email lit up. “Joske! Paul Joske is one of the great craftsman shapers of Australian surfing! You can tell a Valla Surfboard from a mile away. Of course they can come.” I paraphrase, but this is the thrust of it.

Take that as a yes, thinks Mick.

I called Heath’s dad, Paul, who’s enthusiasm and intense interest in the whole idea lead to him sending his elder son Sage down, along with an immaculate Joske take on finless, while midway through the event Heath turned up too, direct for Tahiti, adding his own radical flair to the show.

For much of the time though, the show belonged to Sage. Over the entire week he demonstrated a catlike ability to stay on a surfboard, and an ability to adapt to anything placed under his feet. Any length board, wood or fibreglass, ancient Hawaiian or modern finless, he stuck to it like glue, spun, got barrelled, adapted, amazed. He could also paddle for months, never tiring, it seemed, with total time in the water of seven or eight hours on some days.

I was knackered just watching from the beach.

For me though the thing that stood out was his character. Quiet, shy and incredibly unassuming, as I dug deeper I found a thoughtful, kind man who had plenty to say… in his own time. He clearly knew his surfing backwards, and his love of it was intense and personal. The feelings of different boards, breadth of experience and respect for what has gone before marked our conversations, as well as a very evident ability to go ballistic if the mood so took him.

I like Sage. He is an impressive human being, smart, industrious and with a very clear sense of self. As you read his responses to an arbitrary set of questions I cooked up to get the ball rolling, you will begin to know why the Sage Joske show is no show at all. He is the real deal, if you’ll forgive the expression, and an ornament to the surfing life.

Paul and Jenny Joske, you have a lot to answer for.

So… the questions:

Tell us a little about the history of Valla Surfboards. What took your Mum and Dad up there, how you grew into surfing.

Dad’s parents relocated from Melbourne and built a Caravan Park just behind the dunes. This was when dad was 14 so he fell in love with the ocean and surfing from that age. Mum grew up inland at Tamworth and went to university in Armidale, one of her best friends parents lived at Nambucca, so mum would come to the coast for the weekend and she ended up falling in love with the area and the coast.

Valla Surfboards came about in 1970 when dad began making surfboards in an old farmhouse out at rural Valla. He couldn’t think of a good name for the boards so he decided to call them ‘Valla’ surfboards till he came up with a better name. 40 years on the name is still Valla.

I am not sure if I had a choice to surf or not… it was just something we did. Mum and dad didn’t work too much when I was really young so I was always down the beach. Dad was always out surfing so it was more mum who would watch me and encourage me on my coolite. I used to lay the board on the sand, stand on it, and wait for the waves to run up the beach and lift the board up. In some way I think it was my destiny and heritage to be surfer.

I used to surf on dad’s old boards and I wanted my own board so dad told me when I could swim 50 metres he’d make me a board. I got my first board when I was 7. A 4’9” double flyer winged keel. After getting my board I started surfing a heap. At 8 I joined the Nambucca Valley Boardriders club and started competing. I became obsessed with surfing and competing. I was totally obsessed with both till maybe my early 20’s.

You went to University and have a degree in Multimedia. Why did you move away from it and decide, after all that work, that surfing was your true love?

Half way through my multimedia degree it dawned on me that I probably wouldn’t be working in that field. Just sitting in front of a monitor for hours on end, day after day wasn’t for me. When I was at uni I had a couple of crazy migraines that would take me out and sideline me for a day… it was like I was being stabbed repeatedly in the head. Probably a mixture of uni stress and the monitor affecting my eyes but it freaked me out. Also to get a good paying job I’d have to work in the city away from the beach. I decided I wanted to see my degree through… but I sort of knew that it wasn’t for me.

Inspiring characters…

I guess I am inspired by people that let me view surfing for a little while through the ‘lens’ of their experience. I was really touched watching Woody Brown on ‘surfing for life’ documentary. He seemed like such a warm hearted, giving guy, loving life and still surfing. I want to be like that when I am old. Tom Wegener is responsible for the popularity of the Alaia today. This is inspirational in itself but Tom is also an incredible surfer and a genuine guy. Meeting Derek Hynd at the Musica Surfica event on King Island was interesting. I got to witness his controversy and his free-thinking first hand. I really enjoy surfing and talking/debating with him. Nathan Oldfield has a beautiful insight into surfing and what it means to be a surfer. He makes me feel proud to be a surfer and helps me realise what a special thing it is that we surfers are involved with. I’ve had the pleasure to get to know Andrew Kidman and his family a little over the past couple of years. … he has a pure insight into surfing and he’s not influenced by surfing hype. In my eyes he’s a true artist. I find his straight-talk and directness refreshing.

Who are your greatest surfing influences?

My earliest surf hero was Gary Elkerton but he was Kong to me. I loved the movie Kong’s Island and I have an image ingrained deep into my subconscious of Kong driving through the whitewater as the voiceover guy on the movie says something like “And Kong simply powers through any waves that gets in his way”. I met him once at the stubbies at Burleigh when I was 7 or 8 but I was awestruck and couldn’t say a word.

Tom Carroll was my next hero. I loved his power and his committed on rail surfing. Watching Tom on the video’s at Pipeline and Grajagan I was struck by a sense of majesty. A King is his domain.

My father has influenced my surfing a lot and my brothers too… like the importance of doing a proper bottom turn and laying your board on a rail, he importance of drawing a clean line.

These days my surfing is influenced more by looking through the surfing archives at the lines guys could draw on earlier surf equipment. I was really impressed watching Midget Farrelly surfing Bells Beach on the movie Hot Generation. I have an interest riding Old Mals (original boards made before 1967), and I was really impressed watching Midget riding one these style boards. Poised, crisp footwork, quick pivot turns, all arranged seamlessly.

A bit about your Dad and his perfectionism. And your Mum for putting up with him ;-)

Dad really is a pedantic person and his fussiness in making boards really does border on obsessive compulsive. Working with dad is pretty unique. No matter how good a job I do on a board he will spot its flaws… “that polish is a bit scratchy”, “you have a bump in that rail”, “that colour is a bit uneven”, the resin is uneven there”. It’s never ending. If he doesn’t say much I know it’s pretty good. When I was learning to glass Dad would look over my work and if he couldn’t spot a flaw he’d go grab his glasses for a closer look. If he still couldn’t spot any flaws he’s go grab this big magnifying glass. Once we got to the magnifying glass I knew the glass job was ok. I think he got excited when he found a bubble sometimes. I guess that pedantic critical nature is what has led to dad’s boards becoming increasingly more accurate and cleaner over the years. But it’s humbling for me to deal with everyday. It can be frustrating because I am bound by time and economic constraints when working. Dad is semi-retired and doesn’t have the same constraints I have. It would be nice not to be confronted and made aware of all the flaws… but I guess its good because it speeds up my learning curve to some degree.

I think Mum has been very patient with my Dad over the years. The character traits which make him a beautiful board builder would drive most people crazy if they had to live with him. Mum’s also worked hard as a teacher for a long time now while dad’s been so particular with his boards that he’s never really be able to earn much money from the craft.

What do you hate about surfing ( if anything) ?

Sometimes I feel trapped by my love of surfing. Its in me, in my blood, in me at a heart level. It’s the same building boards too. Building boards then surfing them is such a beautiful and rewarding thing to do. When I’m surfing I think about building boards and when I’m building boards I think about surfing them. But it’s a challenge to pay the bills and get on top of things financially. I’ve got to the end of the month before, done my books, and realised that I’ve actually gone backwards financially. And this is working on the boards diligently…long days and not surfing during the week. I have a mortgage attached to our (Dad and my) shed and sometimes I just get depressed and want to chuck it all in – building the boards that is. But then I think “What would I do?” I am not sure I could do something else and be happy. Its a strange thing but I when I build boards and go surfing it just feels right. I feel like I’m doing what I’m meant to be doing. So if there is one thing I hate about surfing its that I feel a bit trapped by it. But it’s because I love it so much.

Favourite surf spots.

I love Noosa.

Do you have a board preference all things being equal or is it a horses for courses thing?

I don’t have board preference. I like to ride a board that will suit the waves or suit how I want to surf that day. Generally I ride a fish, my Log or an ancient Hawaiian style board.

How long have you been shaping?

About 5 years.

Where are you taking it? All retro and longboards or are you looking at some performance oriented boards that break the mould too?

I just love surfing and surfboards. And I want to make something heartfelt. When I began shaping I was really over short boarding. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with short boarding but I had just done it for a long time and was stale with it. So I have mostly experimented shaping fishes, traditional single fin logs and the finless traditional Hawaiian style boards. Right now I’m having a lot of fun making and riding these boards. It’s given me a fresh experience with my surfing and allowed me to draw alternative lines and explore other regions of the wave and experience new feelings on the wave. So naturally I have been making more of these style boards.

Occasionally I’ll make my brother a high performance short board. And I have two team riders now – Brett Caller and Jack Lynch, both great surfers. So I am challenged to make different boards for them. For instance Brett and Jack both wanted modern high performance long boards which I normally wouldn’t make. But the boards have turned out successful and they’ve both won contests on them which is gratifying. Jack’s a beautiful nose rider and he’s talking about a new log which will allow him to spend more time on the nose. Brett who can ride anything, wants to explore some of the 80’s style boards after checking out some of the 80’s templates in our archives.

My father has always said that he’s a student of surfing and I feel the same. I really have a lot to learn. I hope to be surfing and crafting surfboards into my old age.

You surfed competitively for a while.. how did that go and why did you move away from it?

I loved competing and I think that on some level I can be an intense and competitive person. I am trying to funnel those desires in a different direction these days. But growing up it was great. I was fortunate enough to do well as a cadet and a junior. It really is an incredible feeling to put everything on the line and end up winning. It can be an addictive feeling. But the flip side is that it can hurt losing. And even the best guys can’t win all the time. I stopped competing for a few reasons. I was only getting marginal results on the WQS (the best I did was make a couple of quarter finals), I didn’t have the funds to travel and do the full circuit and as a Christian I struggled with certain aspects of the lifestyle. I really enjoyed competing for those years; but I was ready to stop when I did and doing so opened up a whole new world for me.

Changing the subject, you are a very reserved, polite person. Where does that come from as it is clearly different to Heath who has a bit of the grommit puppy about him?

That’s interesting that you perceive me that way Mick! Maybe I appear reserved because I can be a little shy and standoffish. I feel comfortable within myself and am happy to remain there. Dad’s that way too I guess. Heath… he’s very personable and likeable like Mum. He can be a bad boy on occasions… a very bad boy J .

Are you still hitting the water on the alaia and kiko’o boards? If so are you working with developing the shapes or sticking with the purist ancient Hawaiian model?

I ride my Alaia and Kiko’o when I get the opportunity. I have been working a lot the past few months and missing a lot of surf so when I do go surfing its often in marginal conditions and I’m riding my Volta fish. The surfs got to be bigger to ride the kiko’o so that also narrows down the opportunities to get on these boards a lot.

I’m not currently working on developing these shapes. I am still exploring them and working with my dad to learn how to craft them and get the shape close to the original boards. I think the traditional Hawaiian boards are very special – in the inherent design elements and the feeling they give you on a wave. I would like to spend more time riding and making these boards to broaden my understanding of them.

That said I have made a hybrid board recently half way between an alaia and a Lis fish. The idea wasn’t to push any performance barriers but rather to explore some of the design elements of the alaia with some of the control structures of the fish. So far the board has been interesting allowing long drifting turns and spins at will. Hopefully I’ll learn a lot more from it over the next few months.

Related Links:

Valla Surfboards Promo video
vallasaltwaterconstructs.blogspot.com
www.vallasurfboards.com.au

Photo credits: Tom Woods | Andrew Kidman

Afterword

It was Mick Sowry that first turned us on to Valla Surfboards and the Joske family a couple years ago with his contribution about Paul Joske’s Paulownia chambered board.  Since then we have been hearing and seeing a lot of interesting stuff from the Joske family and Valla Surfboards and it was only fitting that things come full circle as we were looking for someone who knew Sage to get us in touch with him. Mick graciously stepped up and put this piece together for the readers of Phoresia which gives a bit of insight and clarity that comes with a personal connection. So thanks Mick for putting in the time and effort and thank you Sage for the honest insight.

In recent months I’ve taken up running. Unsure as to why exactly I feel the motivation to go out and run I decided to read about running, to see why others run. Perusing the shelves at my local library in Halifax I came upon a title by a Dr. George Sheehan called Running and Being. I will not go deeply into what is inside the book but I will point out two passages.

On analyzing the reasons for play (surfing, running, skateboarding, or whatever activity one chooses) Sheehan says:

“they [the intellectuals] see its useful functions for fitness and compensation for other deficiencies. What they don’t see is a primary category of life that resists all analysis. Play, then, is a nonrational activity. A superlogical nonrational activity in which the beauty of the human body in motion can reach its zenith.”

On the need for movement:

“Physiologists have suggested that only those who can pass the most rigorous physical examination can safely follow the sedentary life. Man was not made to remain at rest. Inactivity is completely unnatural to the body. What follows is a breakdown of the equilibrium. When the measurable beneficial effects of activity on the heart and circulation and indeed on the body’s systems are absent, everything measurable begins to go awry. And if the body goes, can the mind be far behind?”

There is no need to define the essence of surfing or why we surf. It is a nonrational activity.  We surf because we must, because it allows us to live our lives to their fullest potential and not for gain or notoriety, but because without it we are not achieving our own individual perfection.