– stripping surfing back down to its most elemental form

Wegener Update

Most of us probably have some sort of connection with surfing that is not easy to explain to our non-surfing friends. I like to think of this unspeakable connection as the essence of surfing, the pure and exhilarating feeling that you get when you turn, paddle, pop-up to your feet and ready for the first bottom turn. The physical motions can be described but the feeling is well — better left without words. However difficult it may be to articulate the essence does not preclude us from exploring its manifestations.

In one of our earlier interviews we talked with Tom Wegener. Tom has been pursuing a certain purity of surfing by following several paths. From building surfboards out of wood, to exploring old design ideas, and even to riding ancient Hawaiian style surfboards. Tom talked a little about the lay-down Alaia boards and even encouraged our readers to glue some “fence posts” together and give the old style a try. Nathan Oldfield has been working on documenting Tom and he has given us the go ahead to feature two short films on The two films were featured on the 70 page in the last couple of weeks but we feel that it’s not too much of a good thing to give them more coverage.

Not only does Nathan make masterfully styled and executed films, but he is also an accomplished shaper. In these two films he effectively captures the “essence” as Tom equally glides or struggles with his varied ancient equipment. Surfing is not easily defined and is certainly not dictated by the whims and trends and the surfing industry. Here we see a different representation that is uninterested in the commercial value of our pursuit, a vision of the enjoyment which we all know and yet we can’t explain with words. Thanks Nathan and Tom.

Tom Wegener Surfboards Promo: One

Tom Wegener Surfboards Promo: Two

To learn more about Nathan Oldfields’ work check out

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